No luck - still has the same problem at 220v. I also think somehow the grounding is the issue but can't figure out how to solve this issue.
No luck - still has the same problem at 220v. I also think somehow the grounding is the issue but can't figure out how to solve this issue.
The voltage in HK will move between 220V and 230V.
Does your MCB (circuit breaker) break or the RCD in your fuse box? What is the amperage of the circuit breaker? Is it C or D? Or old (black) HK style? What brand (Hager?)?
The purpose of the MCB is to protect the wiring, it goes off on over-currents (and also shorts).
What cable (conductor diameter) are you using between transformer and wall? Use a proper HK plug not an adapter, get a good one in Apliu St (Schneider) and use a cable with at least 1 to 1.5mm2 (>16AWG for your American brain).
Don't use the surge protector if its causing problems
(sorry, on mobile phone can't type long)
Last edited by 100LL; 03-08-2013 at 06:55 AM.
100LL - thanks for your response. I attached pics of my switchboard. It says legrand TPN MCB Distribution Board. The switch that gets flipped is the bottom left one - labeled as 30mA RCD.
I'm currently not using any cable between the wall and the transformer - am using the power cable attached to the transformer and a grey plug adaptor.
I am trying to see if I can use my power bar because I need a lot of US-style plug receptacles - I am guessing they wouldn't sell US-style power bar here.
That is not a fuse or surge protector. It's a current leakage switch and gets triggered when the two wires (L + N) don't match (by 30mA), and they can only not match when there is leakage to ground.
Or look for Japanese ones, they are the same.
You could try to un-ground the device that's causing problems. If it has metal houising then I would do a voltage check housing against ground with a multimeter (Vac setting) just to be on the safe side.
Last edited by flameproof; 03-08-2013 at 10:03 AM.
flameproof - thanks for the explanation. I am guessing the leakage is happening only with the 'better' power bars that have the surge protection function. Would I be able to take it apart and do simple things to "turn off" the surge protection function so that I can use it? Or would it be too dangerous or complicated?
Seriously get rid of the 110 only appliances and get HK rated ones. Save yourself a lot of hassle.
I think cutting off the ground wire of the Belkin Surgemaster should solve the problem.
flameproof - that worked! I cut off the ground wire inside the power bar and the thing works! The only question is whether that is safe - will it catch a fire or something?