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Need Advice on Suit Purchase

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  1. #1

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    Need Advice on Suit Purchase

    I have decided to get a tailored suit in Hong Kong for work. A suit which I would be wearing every 3rd or 4th day. Since I am new to the tailored suit thing, I decided to go through a lot of tailors in TST just to get a general idea of fabrics they use.

    Now my question is what fabric should I get? I was told by 2 tailors to go for Super 180s or 200s for a comfortable fit but I see some vague information that these fabrics are too delicate that daily use would easily get it worn out.

    Also is there anything I should look for when talking with the tailor. I am extremely new to getting a suit tailored so I could use all the help I can get as I do not want to get fooled by good salesmen.

    Would really appreciate inputs as I booked an appointment with the tailor tmr afternoon. TIA


  2. #2

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    I wouldn't trust tailors in TST. I have never tried them though. I think you could try a Chinese tailor in Central (one that sells 3 tailor made shirts for $1000) or go to a store that sells suits.


  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by MandM!:
    I wouldn't trust tailors in TST. I have never tried them though. I think you could try a Chinese tailor in Central (one that sells 3 tailor made shirts for $1000) or go to a store that sells suits.
    Most tailors I met are selling 3 shirts at $1000 as well. But what do you think about the Super 180s fabric? A good fabric for everyday use at work?

    I am trying to understand the materials that goes into making a suit? I am completely overwhelmed

  4. #4

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    Spend an hour or so reading this thread. Yes, it's mainly about Bangkok - but the detail it contains about getting a suit made is relevant to Hong Kong.

    https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntr...ng-in-thailand


  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Srashes:
    I have decided to get a tailored suit in Hong Kong for work. A suit which I would be wearing every 3rd or 4th day. Since I am new to the tailored suit thing, I decided to go through a lot of tailors in TST just to get a general idea of fabrics they use.

    Now my question is what fabric should I get? I was told by 2 tailors to go for Super 180s or 200s for a comfortable fit but I see some vague information that these fabrics are too delicate that daily use would easily get it worn out.

    Also is there anything I should look for when talking with the tailor. I am extremely new to getting a suit tailored so I could use all the help I can get as I do not want to get fooled by good salesmen.

    Would really appreciate inputs as I booked an appointment with the tailor tmr afternoon. TIA
    The tailor shops in TST are just that. Shops. They farm out the cutting, sewing etc. They just take your cash and try to sell you the fabric they get the best margin on.

    There are 3 aspects you should look out for

    1) The cut - make sure you get 1 preferably 2 fittings. Never settle and take someone with you.
    2) The fabric - Super 180s or 200s could just be flannel from the salesman. Check who the distributor of the fabric is. Companies like Long Wear Hong tend to have better products from established mills. Don't buy from a bolt in the shop if a low end shop.
    3) The fabrication - Not much you can do here and is down to the shop you use. Do make sure you get a proper Bemberg Lining not some cheap imitation or 'alternative'

    What is your budget?
    Last edited by East_coast; 12-08-2017 at 12:10 AM.
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  6. #6

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    Original Post Deleted
    And the cross harbour fee for it to get sent to be made in TST or Shenzhen!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by East_coast:
    The tailor shops in TST are just that. Shops. They farm out the cutting, sewing etc. They just take your cash and try to sell you the fabric they get the best margin on.

    There are 3 aspects you should look out for

    1) The cut - make sure you get 1 preferably 2 fittings. Never settle and take someone with you.
    2) The fabric - Super 180s or 200s could just be flannel from the salesman. Check who the distributor of the fabric is. Companies like Long Wear Hong tend to have better products from established mills. Don't buy from a bolt in the shop if a low end shop.
    3) The fabrication - Not much you can do here and is down to the shop you use. Do make sure you get a proper Bemberg Lining not some cheap imitation or 'alternative'

    What is your budget?
    1. I asked regarding the fittings and was told I can get fittings until I find it satisfying.
    2. One of the tailor I liked showed me this small book with fabrics that was around my budget (5k) and showed me the Brand and told me its an Italian Brand - I forgot the name and I probably have to go to the shop again to check. Now, is there anyway to know if its counterfeit?

    His store is situated in China Hong Kong City so would that say anything about the tailor in terms of reputation?

  8. #8

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    And would super 180s wool be okay for everyday use? Would it wear quickly? I mentioned to the tailor that I heard 180s are extremely delicate and could wear easily and he mentioned he uses the same fabric for himself and machine washes it.


  9. #9

    How quickly there wear depends a bit on how you use it, but for an everyday suit I would stick to 160s maximum. And also if your jacket will spend most of the time on a peg or the back of your chair whilst you're wearing the trousers then you'll need at least 2 pairs of trousers; I used to get 3 pairs per jacket, partly because I probably wore the jackets no more than 20% of the time I wore the trousers, and also because my fat thighs tend to cause trousers to wear through between the legs quite quickly.

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Srashes:
    And would super 180s wool be okay for everyday use? Would it wear quickly? I mentioned to the tailor that I heard 180s are extremely delicate and could wear easily and he mentioned he uses the same fabric for himself and machine washes it.
    The idea of thinking that a measure like 'Super 180' gives you comparable quality is like expecting comparability from 'Japanese Rice Cooker' or 'all-steel car'. They're marketing buzzwords. Yes, if all else is equal then the higher the better. But everything else won't be equal.

    I started out in similar fashion by just trying to go with recommendations. You end up at a tailor (TST, Wan Chai or Central won't matter) with a huge amount of expat name cards over their walls, you buy something that feels decent, and you're probably pretty happy. Until you see someone in an actually well fitting suit ('bespoke' in HK means, more often than not, just 'not too tight anywhere') and wonder why yours doesn't fit that well. And then you move on to the next place, looking whether that guy does it better.
    I would advise against VBC (Vitale Barberis Canonico - the entry brand at most tailors, even used at Ascot Chang) 140 though - peels badly in my experience.

    I currently am rather happy (much happier than with other places) with Bonham Strand and Simpson Sim. Not saying they're the best - just that I haven't noticed yet what their shortcomings are . I typically pay 6.5k for a single-breasted jacket with two pants. But that's really all the advice I can give, six suit purchases in.

    In any case, where ever you end up, please do us all a favour and follow the one indispensable rule about suits:
    Jacket. Must. Cover. Ass

    Best of luck
    Srashes, MandM!, Deasun and 2 others like this.

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