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Modern Suit/Tux tailors?

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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by tigger716:
    I guess our definition of a decent suit are very different things. Suits at 1-2k range are fused suits in a rayon/wool blend which doesn't have a natural drape and pretty much breaks on contact with water. 4k range will typically get you a half canvassed with non-premium end bolts (Brooks and Aquascutum are half canvassed). 7k range will land you full canvassed for that natural draping suit. If you are OK with the 1-2k range suits or do not care for canvassed or half canvassed or the tailoring work from those guys that would charge 1-2k then sorry I have nothing to add in this thread. *These prices are approximates based on my knowledge (and I am not a tailor). If you want premium quality wool then they can be around 10k and up.
    Hey, I didn't know Don Draper frequented these forums!
    Seriously, no idea what you are talking about, but it sounds good. I'll have to read up more on what to look for/ask for before i go to the tailor i suppose.

    I want something that feels good against skin, doesn't trap in too much heat, and will last. My thought is that those factors will determine cost. Whereas the style of cut and the form fitting would be based on my design choice. No?

  2. #12

    Fused suits is where they literally cut out your size and glue the front and back of the jacket together (therefore breaks on contact with water). Half Canvassed has a half "filler" in between the suit so that the front and back does not stick together so that it falls naturally but obviously the bottom half can stick. Full canvassed has a full filler for natural drape. End bolt simply means left over wool from a bolt of wool where some other guy used to make his suit. Left over bolts might only have enough for one other suit so the price is usually discounted in order to get rid of that bolt.

    The part on the inside which touches the skin (if that is what you are refering to) is the suit lining. Top of the line silk or a Bemberg liner will usually get you what you want. However, you said this is a summer suit so I'd suggest a half lining so that it breathes better (fully lined suit will trap heat). Otherwise if you are asking about when you or other people touch the outside of the jacket and its smooth, then you need to get a wool swatch book and see which pattern and wool you think feels good. There are a lot of summer wool but some are expensive. Scabal, Holland & Sherry, and Loro Piana for instance are the premium quality wools that I was talking about before. If you touch their swatch compare to other wool, you can tell the difference in an instance.

    So in some ways, yes the quality of the wool, and the lining of the suit is what dictates the pricing. But you also don't want a guy that uses more wool because he screwed up the shoulders and ends up charging you for more wool. I am also very picky and request certain areas to be hand sewn which will drive up the price as well.

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  3. #13

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    1,896
    Quote Originally Posted by tigger716:
    Full canvassed has a full filler for natural drape.
    <...>
    However, you said this is a summer suit so I'd suggest a half lining so that it breathes better (fully lined suit will trap heat).
    Where do you put the canvas if there is no lining? I thought it was something between the outer wool and the lining
    Not that I ever bothered to look what is hiding under the lining of my suits, of course...

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    There is no canvas or lining on parts of half lined jackets. They are impossible to confuse with fully lined jackets.

    See second photo: http://www.suitsociety.com/full-lining-vs-half-lining/


  5. #15

    Sorry yes, not to be confusing but based on the fact that OP wanted a summer suit AND wanted to be in 4k range, having the half lining will save money on the lining and construction. Some summer suits with breathable wool are fully lined and can have half or full canvas. Hope that clear things up.


  6. #16

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Interesting looking company Jason thanks. You've not been on this forum apart from promoting them in a couple of threads. And I can't see any reference to them anywhere on the web, nor do they appear to have a physical address advertised. Can you provide a bit more information on how you know of them and the company?


  7. #17

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    HK
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    Hey Tigger - thanks for the info. I am looking at getting some suits made as well and need a good tailor recommendation. Looking to get very good quality summer weight merino wool. Something like Scarbal super 150s or Cerrutti 1881 Super 120s. Not sure what tailors charge for this level of material. A place in Melbourne Plaza was charging about $8500 but as I had never used them, I wasn't too sure. Don't want to make a mistake on a $8500 suit.

    Also, Taipan Row comes highly recommended but they are on the expensive side. To OP, I think Taipan Row in Galleria is having a sale for under $4000 if you are interested. But I guess at that price, not sure what kind of quality you will get. I might check them out but have no experience with them.


  8. #18

    threelittlepigs:

    I don't have any experience with Taipan but I have heard of a few bad experiences with them. The tailors that I have had experience with or have heard good things about are WW Chan (W.W.CHAN & SONS TAILOR), H. Baroman in Central, A-Man Hing Cheong in the Mandarin Oriental, and Gordon Yao (Gordon Yao).

    There is actually a write up from a very reputable source on the first three places from someone traveling through Hong Kong trying to get his suit made.
    A Suitable Wardrobe: Hong Kong Tailor Report

    I would venture to say that using Scabal super 150s would definitely run the bill up (honestly I am surprised its not 10k so 8.5k is rather decent).

    As far as the tailors are concerned, I think WW Chan has a more modern house cut, Gordon Yao and A-Man is slightly in between modern/conservative and H Baroman is more conservative.

    Hope that helps.

    threelittlepigs likes this.