Any watch collector?

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  1. #21

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    I'm not a fan of the analog-digital combo look. The best examples though are the Bell & Ross Fusion and the Seiko Sportura model.

    Kinetic is pretty old technology now. Seiko's latest innovation is a movement called Spring Drive. It features a hand made mechanical movement...but the energy from the unwinding main spring somehow powers an IC that then synchronizes the movement according to the oscillations of a quartz crystal. So if you can accept the convoluted nature of it, it's effectively the most accurate mechanical watch that money can buy. I've seen a couple models and they're gorgeous, with perfectly sweeping second hands (no noticeable stops and starts and no audible ticking).

    The jewels in the watch serve to reduce friction between the metal parts. Most jewels these days are synthetic.


  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by c1000:
    The jewels in the watch serve to reduce friction between the metal parts. Most jewels these days are synthetic.
    That's a very precise answer! If you want a bit more background....Jewels used in the watches today....or rather even in most watches since the end of the 19th century are indeed synthtic sapphires as mentioned by c1000. The sapphires are chemically identical to rubies (which were the majority of the real jewels used in watches prior to 1900). However, other hard jewels such as diamonds were also used (the key was that the jewel had to be hard in order not to wear down with the constant pressure from the movement). Even when the real precious stones were used, they were extremely small and of too poor quality to be used in jewelry.

    As c1000 also mentions, the main purpose of the jewels is to reduce friction between the gears or moving parts. That's why historically, (especially in older hand and pocket watches) the price of the watch was often directly correllated to the number of jewels in the movement. Note, this was not because the watch contained more prescious stone but rather.....

    In theory, the greater the number of jewels = less friction between parts = more accurate time kept.

    Today, if you look at any mechanical watch with a skeleton back...you will notice the pink or blue sapphires showcased among the gears.....

    Last edited by climber07; 08-05-2007 at 10:48 PM.

  3. #23

    Thanks. Now I know almost everything. Why I don't yet know is:

    1) why do these jewels reduce friction? Because they are lighter than metal? It's the only explanation I can think of right now, but it's past midnight, and I had a few beers.

    2) do they actually make any difference, since new metals might be used compared to the end of the 19th century? Or is it just a tradition: posh watches have jewels.

    3) am i the only one who thinks that blue and pink 'jewels' look ugly in a watch? Why do they always make them pink and blue? Why not white, so they will stop punching me in the eye every time I look at them? My Shenzen PP has one jewel too. It almost put me off buying it.


  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by RastaMan:
    Thanks. Now I know almost everything. Why I don't yet know is:

    1) why do these jewels reduce friction? Because they are lighter than metal? It's the only explanation I can think of right now, but it's past midnight, and I had a few beers.
    You can get a detailed explaination here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jewel_bearing

    "Jewel bearings are known for their low breakaway friction and highly consistent moving friction. The jewel surfaces are very hard and durable and can maintain smoothness over decades of use, thus reducing friction variability."


    Quote Originally Posted by RastaMan:
    2) do they actually make any difference, since new metals might be used compared to the end of the 19th century? Or is it just a tradition: posh watches have jewels.
    What metals are "new"? Titanium? Why would they make a difference on reducing friction...as they are still metal??? It has nothing to do with "poshness" just functionality. As a matter of fact, not only watches but other precision measuring instruments use jewel bearings.

    Quote Originally Posted by RastaMan:
    3) am i the only one who thinks that blue and pink 'jewels' look ugly in a watch? Why do they always make them pink and blue? Why not white, so they will stop punching me in the eye every time I look at them? My Shenzen PP has one jewel too. It almost put me off buying it.
    Most watches do not have "skeleton" (see through) backs, thus the colors of the stones are irrelevant. They are not there to look pretty or ugly they are there for a function use only. Sapphires are typically eiither blue or pink on nature so why would they increase the cost of the synthetic process to produce a different color, when it's not a selling point of the watch to nearly anyone???

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by RastaMan:
    Or is it just a tradition: posh watches have jewels.
    Here is an interesting article on how the whole jewel misconception is often misused by some watch makers:

    Its called: 100 Jewels - 83 jewels too many.

    http://www.timezone.com/library/workbench/workbench0025

    And here is another article from Elgin (one of my favorite pocket watch makers), with full illustration on where and how all the jewels are used in the movement:

    http://elginwatches.org/help/watch_jewels.html



  6. #26

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    >> Could probably be all yours for under $200:

    Not Titanium.... dunno why, but tend to like titanium watches (casing / strap)


  7. #27

    Climber07, Thanks a lot!


  8. #28

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    Watches and value

    One thought for buying genuine luxury watches for reduced prices is to go to the auction houses (disclosure: I work for Sotheby's). It's a well-kept secret that you can often buy factory-sealed or "never used" watches for less than 40% retail at auction. Many of these watches are from extensive watch collections (talking 1000's of watches) and though were owned by individuals, were likely never or very infrequently worn. Obviously you need take it on a case-by-case basis, and always ask for a Condition Report, but if you really want a PP and aren't fanatic about it being 100% unconditionally brand new, I highly recommend it. That's how I bought my IWC Schaffhausen Mark XII for about 65% of retail.


  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by annica:
    One thought for buying genuine luxury watches for reduced prices is to go to the auction houses (disclosure: I work for Sotheby's). It's a well-kept secret that you can often buy factory-sealed or "never used" watches for less than 40% retail at auction. Many of these watches are from extensive watch collections (talking 1000's of watches) and though were owned by individuals, were likely never or very infrequently worn. Obviously you need take it on a case-by-case basis, and always ask for a Condition Report, but if you really want a PP and aren't fanatic about it being 100% unconditionally brand new, I highly recommend it. That's how I bought my IWC Schaffhausen Mark XII for about 65% of retail.

    Very nice tips. Is there any of those auctions in Hong kong?

    I'm a watch lover too. Do you guys know a good reliable shop... and cheaper

  10. #30

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    I have a problem with watches - I stop them - take it off and it works fine. My fear in buying a good watch is that this isn't a good reason to return the watch and several thousand is a lot to pay for a watch I might not be able to wear. I once had a drawerful of watches that ticked away happily once away from me. Any suggestions?